How to care for a wax jacket: The complete guide to cleaning, reproofing and storing Your Wax Jacket

A quality wax jacket is not a garment you replace after just a few seasons. Renowned brands such as Barbour, Belstaff, Dubarry and other makers of waxed cotton jackets have built their reputation on durability, craftsmanship and timeless style. With the right care, a wax jacket can last for decades, developing more character with every year of wear.

In our workshop, however, we regularly receive jackets that have suffered unnecessary damage. Washing a wax jacket in a washing machine, using household detergents or applying the wrong treatment can strip away the protective wax finish and, in some cases, cause permanent damage to the fabric.

In this comprehensive guide, we'll explain how to care for your wax jacket properly, helping you keep it in excellent condition for years to come. We'll also show you when professional cleaning, reproofing or repairs are the best option to preserve its appearance, performance and longevity.

The answer depends entirely on how often you wear your jacket and the conditions it is exposed to. While some jackets only need occasional professional care, others benefit from more regular maintenance.

Occasional use

If you only wear your wax jacket for country walks, weekend outings or occasional outdoor activities, professional maintenance every three to five years is usually sufficient.

Regular use

If your jacket is worn several times a week, we recommend having the condition of the wax finish checked every two to three years. This helps ensure the jacket continues to offer reliable protection against the elements.

Heavy use

For gamekeepers, equestrians, dog owners, farmers or anyone who spends long periods outdoors, annual maintenance is often the best choice. Frequent exposure to rain, mud and daily wear causes the protective wax finish to deteriorate more quickly.

Ultimately, the condition of the jacket is far more important than its age. A well-used jacket may require attention sooner than one that spends most of its time hanging in the wardrobe

A wax jacket will usually show clear signs when it needs attention. If you notice any of the following, it may be time for professional cleaning, reproofing or repairs:

• the fabric looks dry or dull;
• lighter patches appear on the shoulders or sleeves;
• rain no longer beads on the surface and begins to soak into the fabric;
• the jacket feels stiff or dry to the touch;
• the colour starts to fade;
• the fabric shows signs of wear.

The sooner these signs are addressed, the easier it is to preserve the jacket's protective qualities, appearance and lifespan.

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Many people ask whether it is safe to wash a wax jacket in a washing machine. The answer is simple: no. A wax jacket should never be washed in a washing machine. Regardless of the programme you choose, including:

• a wool cycle;
• a hand-wash cycle;
• a low-temperature wash.

The combination of water, detergent and mechanical agitation removes the protective wax finish completely. It can also damage the seams, lining and trims, often leaving the jacket beyond repair.

Every year, our workshop receives jackets that have suffered permanent damage as a result of being machine washed.

Minor dirt and surface marks can usually be removed at home with a little care.

Use only:

• lukewarm water;
• a soft sponge;
• a soft cloth.

Always avoid using:

• all-purpose cleaners;
• washing-up liquid;
• household soap;
• laundry detergent;
• chemical cleaning products.

These products remove the protective wax finish and may permanently affect the performance and appearance of your jacket.

Over time, every wax jacket gradually loses its protective wax finish. A fresh coat of wax is usually needed when:

• rain no longer beads on the surface;
• the fabric looks dry or dull;
• the colour begins to fade;
• the cotton starts absorbing moisture instead of repelling it.

Professional reproofing restores the jacket's weather resistance while also helping to protect the fabric and extend its lifespan.

Many forms of damage start small. A loose stitch or a tiny tear may seem insignificant at first, but continued use can quickly make the problem worse.

It's therefore worth checking your jacket regularly for:

• worn or damaged zips;
• loose press studs;
• signs of wear to the lining;
• worn cuffs;
• damaged pockets;
• loose or worn seams.

Minor repairs are often quick and straightforward to carry out, helping to prevent more extensive damage and keeping your wax jacket in excellent condition for years to come.

Even during the warmer months, a wax jacket deserves a little care. To keep it in the best possible condition, store it:

• on a sturdy, broad-shouldered hanger;
• in a dry, well-ventilated place;
• away from direct sunlight.

Avoid storing your jacket in vacuum bags or sealed plastic covers. A wax jacket needs to breathe, and proper air circulation helps preserve both the fabric and the wax finish.

In our workshop, we regularly see the same mistakes repeated. The most common are:

• washing the jacket in a washing machine;
• cleaning it with laundry detergent;
• using a hairdryer or other direct heat sources;
• leaving the jacket to dry on a radiator;
• folding it while it is still damp;
• waiting too long before having minor damage repaired.

Avoiding these common mistakes will help your wax jacket retain its appearance, performance and protective qualities for many years to come.